Several years ago, Karen’s family hosted a foreign exchange student from Italy who showed her how to turn a shoebox into a bead loom and then how to use it to make bracelets. Karen was then 18, and ever since she’s been hooked on beading and wirework. A voracious reader, she learned every technique she could through books and online research, and worked to improve every aspect of her techniques, supplies, design, and presentation ability.

Karen now shares her knowledge and skills by teaching bead and wirework classes in her home state of Texas, where she is constantly amazed with the new ideas beginning students are able to come up with. “That’s what makes everyone’s work different,” she says, “everyone approaches a craft with ‘different eyes.”

Striving to remain inspired, Karen tries to keep a ‘different eye’ by exploring all types of color and media. She especially enjoys working with wire, freshwater pearls, gemstones and Swarovski crystal. In 2009, Karen won the Fire Mountain Gems beading contest, Bronze Medal for her stunning earring design.

I guess the best way to talk about this subject is to tell you my story. While I was working at a restaurant I began selling my jewelry to co-workers. A well-known artist, who lives locally, saw my work and invited me to participate in her nationally known art show. Of course I was excited and said yes!

Now, I have to stop here and tell you that this show was two weeks away and having only ever visited a variety of art shows and craft festivals around the country, I had no earthly idea as to what I was getting myself into! I had no tent, no display items, no ‘anything’ that I needed. So I turned to a co-worker (you now know as my friend and faculty member ‘Stained Glass Lindi’) and asked if she wanted to do the show with me, adding her beautiful glass pieces. She agreed and then admitted that she also was clueless about how to get things together.

The following weekend I paid a visit to another local show, just to ‘walk it’ with a different eye, looking at how vendors had their booths set-up, what type of tents were available, etc. Obviously I was supposed to get into this business, because when I stopped to question an older woodworker about his type of tent, he offered to sell it to me the next day (at show closing) for just $100 because he had decided to retire. OK, now I had a tent! And a good one at that, with metal bars you could ‘chin’ on. (And while the gentleman took it down, I had to number each of the zillion pieces with a magic marker so I knew how it went together again.)

Display items and tables were my next goal. I choose a wooden rack (the kind that goes on the back of a commode) to which I added lots of screw-in hooks so I could hang my hand-made earring cards. (Poster board cut with scissors and holes made with a small paper-punch, labeled also by hand.)  At a local yard sale I picked up a couple of tall, plastic, soda displays and had my husband use his grinder to remove the logos and names. My main table was a fold-up aluminum one borrowed from Lindi, who had used it for years while doing wallpaper work (and it was more than a bit wobbly). A folding chair was borrowed from our travel trailer as well as a rug, and as I had worked for a direct sales company in the past, I had some great, blue tablecloths. We all thought I needed more color, so I draped a Mexican blanket over the blue. Now I had to find some type of cover for the holes in those soda displays, and as sewing is not my thing, I bought and cut some felt in the same colors as the blanket (no hemming necessary).

To display my pendants I just used U-shaped jewelry pins and attached each piece to the velvet boards I used inside my storage trays. Rings and bracelets went into the one glass topped box I had to keep cabochons in. All of the signage was made out of paper, printed on my computer, and then covered with adhering clear plastic (I think I found in the cabinet lining section of a department store). And although my very first business cards were quite sad, they did have my name and address on them, and a brief description of what I make and sell.

The result? Well, during that first three-day show I about sold out! I also received several show applications in the mail from other promoters who liked my work enough to invite me to participate in their show. Not bad for a two-week learning experience. Needless to say, over the years I became more professional with my set-up and displays, but not all at once! After all, this was my ‘hobby business’ and I was not going to take funds out of the household to make it happen. Rather, after every show I took my profits and purchased one or two more items (a lot of which I still use today).

The lesson from this experience is: you do not need a lot of expensive display items and professional equipment to get started! Look around your home, basement, garage and those of your family and friends. You will be amazed at what your imagination can do with a few simple items. After all, your jewelry is what people are coming to see and hopefully purchase.

Today one can begin participating in outdoor art and craft shows quite inexpensively due to the selection of affordable tents available from a variety of companies. Check your local department store or ‘wholesale’ club for some nice choices. If you are an outdoors person, you probably have a few good tarps that could be used to begin with, for no additional cost. Colored sheets make great table covers (I still use a lot of those today) and about every computer comes preloaded with a good design program so you can make your own business cards and signage.

Choosing the right show for your work is very important. If it is a local or ‘drive’ show (no hotel/motel necessary) and the booth fee is reasonable, sure, give it a shot. However I always advise my students to ‘walk’ a more expensive or ‘travel ’show first. Yes this means not participating in it right away, but take the time to make the drive and check out the local area for restaurants and a decent place to spend the night, besides ‘walking the show’ to see what types of vendors and items are included, how the promoter seems to be handling things (or if you can even find them) and ask vendors questions. (More on this in a future article.)

Here are examples of different types of booth set-up and displays, according to the venue. The photo below was taken at a high-end sci-fi con, where in addition to their gallery table, each juried artist also has the option of purchasing one 6-foot table. No, that’s not a lot of space and it depends on what you are doing as to how to set it up. This costumed artist was using her space to demonstrate her art form that in turn generated customers interest, who then paid a visit to her gallery table and made their purchases from it. (Atlanta, GA)

The following picture is of a display at an art gallery where the artist was ‘the feature’ and her work is only priced via a list in the customers program. (Boston, MA)

I don’t know about you, but I have found that most people will NOT walk INTO a jewelry booth! (Maybe they are intimidated by thinking they have to purchase an item as admission or something.) To counter this situation (with the exception of my first 2 shows) I never set-up so people have to walk in! Instead, I set my tables up around the perimeter of my space, which puts a boundary between them and me. (Maybe they feel safer this way?) When they walk by my tables I just say ‘Hi’ and tell them ‘what’ they are looking at, describing my art form. If they are interested, I can always come around the tables to help them try things on. (Dothen, AL)

Yes, not being on the end of a booth row can limit your space if you set up around the perimeter, as you would only have about 10-feet of space. My solution to this challenge is to make my own aisle. (Virginia Beach, VA)

After many years of participating in shows all over the United States, I finally have one basic set-up that I now use all the time, with variations being made just by changing the table covers or the holiday theme, (and I still add one new display item every year). Life is good. (Bmghm, AL)

Yes, I like to have most of my work displayed in covered cases. Not only do cases prevent jewelry items from developing limbs and disappearing, but they also protect my work from dust and dirt. (You would be amazed to see how much lint and dust collects on the safety glass tops, within just a few hours ‘indoors’!) And if you are wondering how I fill my cases, I choose to display my items by what I personally feel go together, rarely the same combination twice, and usually surround a higher priced item with a variety of mid to lower priced pieces. (I am also known for changing and moving the contents of my display cases around during a show.) Other folks like to group their work according to either color or material, and still others group by price. As seen in some of the above pictures, I also think that it is very important for customers to be able to freely pick up and try things on, so some of my bracelets are lying loose on my main table too.

You may also notice the little white squares along the edge of the cases. These are my prices. (I think tags are ugly and take away from the jewelry.) I cut small shapes from 3×5 cards and list the item name or the material it is made from and the price. (I know that if I walk into a jewelry store or booth and cannot see any prices, I think they are probably high and I couldn’t afford them anyways.) By using these small cards I can also change the price whenever I want, and not have to worry about cutting and threading, etc.

The arena of display and booth set-up ideas is HUGE! This is just a sample of things I have tried that I hope may help those of you who are wondering in which direction to head while thinking about participating in shows, or those of you who are looking for a fresh idea. (And for all of those who have asked me for such an article via our ‘tips’ submission form, thanks!) 

Stay ‘Twisted’!

Dale/Cougar

Twisted wire can add style, dimension, and elegance, flash or fun to a wire jewelry design.  Sometimes twisted wire is a major player, placed where it is to be seen and sometimes it is added in obscure places to add interest to a design such as within the sides of a framed cabochon.  Having received a number of questions from those who are a bit confused as to how to twist wire, what to twist and when to use it, my hope is that this article enables you to have more fun using twisted wires in your jewelry designs.

Let’s begin by looking at a variety of ‘wire twisters’, and how to use them.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Wire_Twisting_Pliers_6_Inch_Pack_of_1-5948-0.html

These are called “wire-twisting pliers”.  They are basically a pair of large, heavier pliers with an attached pin vise that has a spring-loaded handle.  After cutting the desired length of wire to be twisted, one end is tightly secured to a solid surface such as winding it around a nail on a bench or a wall, (or having another person hold the end firmly in a heavy pair of flat-nose pliers).  The operation is to then insert the other end of the wire(s) through a hole at the back of the plier’s jaws and then into the end of the pin vise.  After locking the wires tightly into the pin vise, the round knob at the end of the pin vise is pulled out and let go, causing the spring mechanism within the pin vise unit to twist the wire(s).  It can be continuously pulled and released until the wire is twisted to satisfaction, and would be best used for lengths of wire18-inches and longer.  After the desired twist has been achieved, open the pin vise to release the wire and pull it out of the pliers, then unhook the wire from the nail or other secured end.  Yes, these pliers can be used to twist either a single or most multiple wire combinations.

My personal opinion: yes these pliers work, however I feel that they are a bit archaic since one can get the same results using either a hand-held automatic screwdriver or drill that is easier to use, and costs about the same or less than these cumbersome pliers.  Also, these wire-twisting pliers only allow you to twist in one direction.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/3_6_Volt_Automatic_Wire_Twister_Cordless_Screwdriver-3517-0.html

A cordless power screwdriver is a small, compact unit that can be used to twist either a single or most multiple wire combinations easily.  It has a chuck end, (the opening used to insert a variety of bits), that will not close around any wire, and therefore a hex chuck needs to be inserted into the bit opening.  (See description below)  Procedure: place the end(s) of the length of wire(s) to be twisted into the chuck and spin the chuck tightly closed around the wire(s).  Hold the opposite end of the wire firmly in a pair of flat-nose pliers and push the button in either the forward or the reverse direction and twist until the desired effect has been obtained.  Open the chuck and release the wire.  (Having the option of either forward or reverse is nice when planning wire designs as discussed later.)  Most power screwdrivers include an A/C adaptor that can be used to charge the unit for use without electricity.  The A/C adaptor is also a nice feature as when the charged power has run out, the unit can still be used while plugged into an electric source and charging.  Yes, a power screwdriver can be used to twist really long lengths of wire, gauges 12 and smaller.

My personal opinion: As a power screwdriver will keep its charge for quite a while, this is a nice unit to take to shows and to travel with, (however please remember that although one is not allowed to take a power tool ‘on a plane’, it can be in your checked luggage).  While working a show, I like the option of having a single tool that has multiple uses because sometimes I need a screwdriver or drill too!  The only drawback to using a power screwdriver is the fact that with most styles, a separate chuck has to be inserted to hold the wire and when used you have to be careful not to pull both the wire and the chuck out of the unit.  The answer is simple, try not to ‘pull’, just hold the wire taunt with the flat-nose pliers, and if it pulls out, just put the chuck back in and continue twisting.  Or, if you think you will never use the power screwdriver for anything other than twisting wire, the hex chuck can be glued into it.  (See picture below that shows how to ‘hold’ wire(s) when twisting)

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/3_Prong_Wire_Twister_Head-3518-0.html

This little gem is called a keyless hex chuck and is the unit inserted into the end of most power screwdrivers when they are used to twist wire(s).  (See above)

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Automatic_Wire_Twister_1_5_lb_7_25×7_0_Inches-3516-0.html

Another unit used to twist very long lengths of either a single or about all multiple wire combinations is a power drill.  Most power drills have a chuck end that will spin down tight enough to securely hold a single wire, however if yours does not, simply insert a just the end of a sliding pin vise or a hex chuck into the end and tighten the drill’s chuck around it.  (Inserting any pin vise in its entirety will limit being able to use the reverse mode of the drill as the ends of pin vises are threaded and will screw off!  (See picture below.)  Yes, both a corded and a cordless drill can be used to twist wire, a cordless being more convenient.
My personal opinion:  One of my favorite tools!  I absolutely love a cordless power drill for twisting long lengths of wire in many gauges, (I use up to 10g).  Over the past years, I have used a variety of brands and burn one up about every two years or so, due to the amount of wire I use.  The only drawback is that a power drill can be cumbersome to travel with, so I also own and regularly use four cordless power screwdrivers, when I teach and work shows.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Swivel_Head_Pin_Vise-3514-0.html

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Double_Ended_Pin_Vise-3519-0.html

These are two types of pin vises.  The one on the top is a ‘Swivel Head’ and the one on the bottom is a Double Ended or better known as the ‘standard’ pin vise.  Each is used in the same manner, twist one of the heads to open the inset jaws and then insert the end of a single piece of wire, (or two or three small gauged wires), into the center and twist the head tightly closed around the wire(s).  Hold the opposite end(s) of the wire(s) firmly with flat-nose pliers and twist the pin vise with the other hand until the wire is twisted to the desired look.  Then twist the head open to release the wire.  With regards to wire jewelry creation, these units are most often used to twist shorter lengths of wire, from ¼-inch to 12-inches.  Each of these two pin vise styles can be used to twist separate segments on the same wire, (as the swivel head is removable).  This is done by either opening both ends, or by removing the end opposite that which is to hold the wire, and inserting a longer length of wire through the entire pin vise, so only a short length is protruding from the tightened end.  Hold this end with flat –nose pliers and twist to desired effect, then open the tightened end and slide the untwisted wire through to the desired length, hold that segment where desired with flat-most pliers and twist the part that is between the flat-nose pliers and the tightened end of the pin vise.  Repeat the procedure until the entire wire length has been twisted in whatever segments are planned.  For example, a 12-inch wire could be twisted every other inch and then used in the planned design.  Either pin vise will work to twist a single wire up to a 16g.    When either pin vise is used to twist multiple wires, the best results happen when using no more than 2 wires at a time, in gauges 22 and smaller.  Most often, either of these units is used to twist a single wire.

My personal opinion: The only benefit to owning either of these styles of pin vise is in having the option of twisting certain segments on a single wire. Each is small, compact and can be traveled with easily.  As for twisting single wires when embellishing a design, it takes a bit of time to unscrew the head, inset a short segment of wire, screw the head tight around the wire, twist a few times and then unscrew the head to release the wire.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Sliding_Pin_Vise-3493-0.html

Pictured here is a thumb-operated or Sliding Pin Vise.  It will perform all of the duties listed for the other two just described and works the same way.  The main benefit of this marvelous device is that it takes a fraction of the time to set-up and use.  Center and insert the end of a single, or up to two small wires, into the rounded end, use your thumb to push the knurled slide up the end, until it has tightly enclosed the wire(s) and twist.  Use your thumb to push the slide down to release the wire(s).  Please note that pin vises are most often used to twist a single, shorter wire.

My personal opinion: The Sliding Pin Vise is one of my favorite tools.  When I am embellishing a piece of wire jewelry, I find this unit easy to use, fast and very convenient.  The only drawback is that you can not use it to twist in a counterclockwise direction, without holding onto just the head, immediately below the knurled slide, as the head will twist off; making it inconvenient for those who prefer to twist using their left hand.

Holding Wire While Twisting
Although a pair of chain-nose pliers can be used, I prefer to use flat-nose pliers to hold the opposite end of the wire I am twisting.  The larger surface area inside the jaws of a flat-nose give more stability and you do not have to hold them in a ‘death grip’, thus preventing possible damage to your hand or wrist.

Place about 1/8-inch of the wire end into the jaws of flat-nose pliers, about mid-way down the jaw.  Hold the pliers so they are vertical to the horizontal position of the wire, grip firmly and hold the wire so it is just tautly and twist away!  (If you hear a ‘clicking’ noise coming from the flat-nose end, you are not holding the wire tightly enough and the wire is turning within the flats!)

Before you ask; Yes!  It is normal for a wire to occasionally twist tighter at each end when compared to the twist in the center, especially when using a type of ‘power’ tool.  Sometimes this happens because the person using the tool is not consistent with the pressure/speed at which they are operating the power tool and sometimes it’s just the nature of the wire and how it was milled to being with.

You could take this in account when planning the wire’s length and cut it about an inch longer, (as it will twist more tightly for about ½-inch at each end), and then cut those ends off.  Rather than waste wire, I suggest that you don’t stress over this little issue; you are creating a handmade item that is not supposed to look ‘machine made’!

What Wires??
I receive a lot of questions with regards to confusion about the sizes, shapes and tempers of wire to twist . . . . or not to twist.  Let’s talk about the shapes most commonly used in wire jewelry design.
Square:
•    When an individual square wire is twisted, the resulting appearance is similar to a diamond cut chain, which is referred to as a ‘bead’.
•    Although two individually twisted square wires can then be twisted together, due to the difficulty in getting each individually twisted to the same ‘bead’, the result will more than likely be a looser twist as the two twisted wires will seem to repel each other.
Round:
•    A single round wire cannot be twisted to get a ‘party streamer’ or coiled appearance!!
•    Two or more round wires can be put into a wire twister and twisted together.
•    Round wire can be twisted around a square wire.
Half-round:
•    Half-round wire can be twisted around a square or a round wire.
•    Half-round wire can be twisted individually

Facts to Remember:
•    Twisting any temper of wire will harden it!  (Therefore I recommend that when 19 gauge or larger square wire is twisted before using, that you use dead soft.)
•    The more tightly any wire is twisted, the thinner and weaker the wire becomes; therefore take care when working a tightly twisted wire using complicated techniques.
Examples:
If a tightly twisted wire is made into a rosette or spiral and that rosette is then folded over at a hard angle, the wire may break!
If a twisted wire is used as the top wire on a framed stone, when that wire is tightly pulled over the stone the wire may break!

I hope this answers a few of the many questions I’ve received about ‘twisting wire’.

“Stay Twisted!!”

Dale/Cougar
DaleCgr@wire-sculpture.com

Copper is a heavy, chemical element found naturally in the earth and has a ‘soft’ hardness of 2.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, (talc is #1 as softest and hardest diamond is #10). Copper is almost indestructible and as such, artifacts and relics showing its’ use throughout the ages have survived, allowing modern man to track the development of civilization through more than 10,000 years! 

Easily found in abundance, pre-historic man discovered the malleability of copper and used it to form simple weapons, tools and talismans. Some of coppers’ other historic roles include: being formed into statues and all forms of ritual and/or decorative art; used in the construction and protection of dwellings as roofs, gates and plumbing; shaped into eating and drinking vessels and utensils; used in thin sheets as a painter’s canvas and to protect the underside of ships from algae and parasites; used as trade barter and currency; and of course for personal and often functional ornamentation, copper and its early alloys of bronze and brass have been made into pieces of jewelry. (The following samples are from Morocco and can be seen at Epcot.)

The main property of copper that associates it with healing, is that copper is ‘biostatic’.  This means that bacteria will not grow on its’ surface. The ‘ancients’ realized this feature and made drinking vessels of copper to drink water from as a healing method.  Modern man uses copper in garden sprays to dispel mildew and other bacteria from plants. Copper tubing is used in air conditioning units to prevent the spread of bacteria. Copper-impregnated fabrics have many uses as socks, uniforms and underwear for the sports industry; gauze bandages, wound products and textiles used in healthcare such as gowns, masks, towels, etc; household pillowcases, mattresses and carpeting; and for military and industrial clothing. Did you know that some hospitals use copper doorknobs to prevent the spread of germs? I realize now that what I though were just gorgeous older elevators, they were actually made using copper and brass as disease resistant decor! (This example is found in a bulding on Liberty Ave in Pittsburg, PA.)

Copper is very important to the human body too. We all consume copper in the form of vegetable, nuts, dried beads, seafood and (thank goodness) chocolate! Copper is also present in the air we breathe and in the water we drink. A copper deficiency in a humans diet can be associated with many stomach diseases, chronic diarrhea and premature birth, as well as high cholesterol levels. So enjoy your chocolate desert!

I’ll bet you have more copper in your personal home than you think (I know I do). One of coppers alloys is brass. Look around your home. Do you see brass andirons and tools near your fireplace or woodstove? How about any brass lamps, bells, a Grandfather or antique clock, a brass bed frame, silver plated flatware or tea set?  Ok, now how about the construction of your home. Did you know that an average single-family house in the United States contains more than 400 pounds of copper? Think about the builder’s hardware, plumber’s brass fittings and goods and the electrical wire. Now look at all of your electronic devices (computers, game players, stereo) and regular appliances like the heat pump or furnace and AC unit, stove, refrigerator, washer and dryer, etc.  Amazing when you think about this, isn’t it. (And I’m not even going to detail all of ways that copper is used within the transportation industry!)

Native or natural copper is a lovely pinkish color, however most of what we are familiar with has a reddish/orange/brown tone due to the fact that when copper is exposed to oxygen it develops a layer of tarnish. Copper also forms within several other minerals like chalcopyrite (fools gold), covellite, malachite and azurite. Copper is also the responsible color pigment for the mineral turquoise. Most copper findings produced today are polished, and most copper jewelry is coated with a lacquer both of which are temporary protection from tarnish. Copper will eventually turn a human’s skin green due to the reaction of the copper with the chemicals present in the human body.

 This is a photo I took of a basket of malachite in various forms. The specimens in the center show copper inclusions.

All of the pictures included in this article are from my private collection. The following picture is of a piece of ‘flow’ from a copper mine in Arizona. When it was given to me, it was explained that as copper is smelted to remove all impurities, all types of ore emerge, such as silver, gold and platinum. Taken in the morning sunlight, this piece clearly shows all of those metals!

This copper ‘drip’ is part of my outdoors collection as it weighs about 5 pounds and has very sharp edges. It is a solidified ‘drip’ from a smelting vat. The ’sheet’  and freeform mass are just more of my copper collection.

The only serious way to release deadly chemicals such as arsenic from copper is by heating it. Therefore all copper cookware is coated with a protective shield and anyone who uses any type of heat when working with copper needs to work in an area with adequate ventilation as well as wear personal protection such as a respirator. My husband is a boilermaker who is occasionally in situations where deadly fumes are present; such as repairs in the copper mines of the SW United States, and all workers there are required to wear respiratory protection. 

 All of the above information and facts are scientifically proven and true. Now let’s look at some healing theories associated with copper.

Many different cultures through the ages have used copper as a healing agent. Most of these cures were based on the fact that copper is biostatic or an antibacterial material. Second only to silver, copper is the best conductor of both heat and electricity therefore it is presumable that it would also help to conduct the flow of oxygen, energy, blood and other bodily fluids. 

Many people swear by the use of copper as an assistant with arthritic pain, however there is no scientific proof of this to date.

Based on scientific facts, it can be concluded that copper is a very important part of the human body and without it our entire circulatory and digestive systems suffer, and that copper peptides assist in cell regeneration that quickens wound healing.

I leave the rest up to your own individual judgment.

‘Stay Twisted!’

Dale/Cougar 

While attending a St Jude’s benefit show, Charley was blown away by the jewelry creations of Dale ‘Cougar’ Armstrong and asked to take classes.  That was three years ago and now, to relax during “downtime” from her real job of making parts for American army tanks, Charley enjoys making wire jewelry.  Her favorite projects are earrings because they can be easily made in an evening.  Charley’s previous way to unwind included all types of small needlework.  She is proud of her Cherokee heritage and often it influences her personal jewelry designs.  A native of southeast Tennessee, Charley lives with her two furry companions, T-Bone and Maryjane