Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 30, 2010

Question:

Hello, Dale! I love the site, and I find the information so useful!

The biggest issue I have is trying to determine how to adjust for different gauges of wire when I make something. I have found tips and instructions that specify the required gauge, and sometimes there is a caveat that states, “Adjust lengths accordingly if using a different gauge.” So, how do I adjust the lengths? Thanks!

-Karmadhyana in Salem, Oregon

Answer:

Thanks Karmadhyana, we try to do our absolute best!

Regarding your issue, there are a couple ways to think about this. Of course, if you are wrapping a bundle of wires that are a larger gauge than the pattern specifies, you will need more wire to go around the bundle.

However, I think most often this question concerns adding beads to a bracelet or other design. For example, when adding larger beads to a platform bangle, the bead wire would need to be longer due to the additional needed height of the platform so this wire ends up being long enough for proper folding and finishing the bracelet ends (generally an additional 1/2-inch will do). When using larger beads to make a woven or braided beaded item (collar, bracelet, earrings) because the braiding wire goes around each and every bead, this wire length needs to be increased to compensate for the larger bead size.

I know not having a lot of scrap wire is important to all of us; however, the only way to figure this particular change would be to guesstimate the additional length (I add 3/8-inch per 10mm bead to the original formula) and to keep track of your results. While making these experimental braided items, you will build a nice stock of size varieties for your next show.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Have a question? Submit your question here

Sign up to receive Daily Tips by email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 24, 2010

Question:

I would like to make a bracelet with my Indian Head nickel, but I cannot find a snapset that will fit. I was told it measures 21–but I don’t know what 21 means. Do you know where I could purchase a snap set to fit this nickel, or what I can do with it?

-Nancy in Idaho Falls, Idaho

Answer:

The number 21 refers to the distance across the center of the coin, 21mm in diameter. As you desire to make this into a bracelet, you could make a side-to-side frame wrap and attach the bail ends onto a Chevron Bracelet base (as seen on the cover of Wirework, where you will also find detailed directions). As for a snapset, sorry, I do not know where you might find a snapset 21mm round, as that is an uncommon size. You may have better luck searching for a coin bezel.

Folks with larger coins interested in making a pendant can watch Disc 3 of the Intermediate Series to learn the Reversible Framed Pendant. And the reason I mention this DVD is it’s part of today’s Daily Deals: it’s 50% off for today only!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Have a question? Submit your question here

Sign up to receive Daily Tips by email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 22, 2010

Question:

Dale, is there a rule of thumb governing the size and temper of wire for a self-designed project? For instance, for a bracelet, what determines the size of the base wire and the size of the wrapping wire? Thanks.

-John in Alma, Arkansas

Answer:

Ok, here is where I’ll get comments about being vague, but the wire gauge chosen really is up to you–no rules, per se. I am going to answer this one from personal experience with bracelets. However, the variety of projects is huge, and the answer could cover many paragraphs.

As a traditional/classic wire jewelry designer, when I make bracelets, there are two things that I take into consideration: who is going to be wearing it, and how often? An all-wire bangle for a child or for a small female arm can be made in a delicate manner, using 22-gauge square half hard wire for both the base and the wraps. For a design made for a larger arm or a male, I increase the gauge for both the base and the wraps to 21 or 20. If the larger design includes beads, cabs, or components, and will be rather wide (that is, 10 wires or more), I stay with 22.

Because bracelets are in a high-traffic area, they need to be strong This is why I choose to use a square half hard for the wraps, always in the same gauge as the base. The only time I deviate is when making heavy pattern wire bracelets. Due to the dome present on most pattern wire, I use either a 16-gauge or 18-gauge half hard half round so it flows more easily over the pattern wire’s dome. The base wire (this is the wire that sandwiches the pattern wire) is chosen to match the thickness of the pattern wire’s edge, so it does not want to pull under or over the pattern wire while it is all being wrapped.

Often, plain common sense can help you choose gauges that go together. For example, if a bracelet is made using 21-gauge square half hard for base wires, a 21-gauge half round will not be strong enough to wrap it unless a LOT of wraps are used! Overall, 22-gauge square half hard is my favorite choice for about any design, from pendants and rings to bracelets.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Have a question? Submit your question here

Sign up to receive Daily Tips by email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 9, 2010

Question:

One of the hallmarks of a successful craft business is that the item looks professional and not easily reproduced. The great communication of the internet is a mixed blessing for making money. And that is ok with me on a spiritual level. But the mystique and profit of “how was this made?” with beginner-level items is gone.

What are the better selling beginner items?

Answer:
I am going to answer this question based on both my and hundreds of my personal students’ experience. As you have asked about specifically beginner projects, let’s look at just a few of the ones covered in the Beginner DVD set.

The “All Wire Unisex Bangle” is a dependable good seller in the mid-price range of $50 to $85. My “Orbit” earrings and any type of headpin charm earrings are a customer’s favorite impulse buy, both for personal as well as gift use, and they are low end items priced between $18 and $35. Framed cabochon pendants are a constant as they are usually one-of-a-kind items, made using different colored stones and embellishments, mid to high end priced from $30 to $145 (or more). The “Anything” pendant sells well at a lower end of $15 to $30. Lastly, the three-bead and “Orbit” rings sell for $10 to $25 and are another very popular impulse purchase. Wow! That’s quite a versatile collection for a beginner, and all of these sell well!

The “mystery and intrigue” you are looking for can come by simply using a variety of unique beads, stones and materials within these designs, adding a chain here or a charm there. Although the art form of wire jewelry has become extremely popular in the past few years, there are still a lot of folks who have no idea how to do it, and even more folks who would rather purchase a finished item than learn to make it themselves.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Have a question? Submit your question here

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 04, 2010

Question:

I am trying to make the bracelet that is the first project on your Beginner’s DVD.  I am having great difficulty keeping all the wires together.  I keep straightening the wires, and yet the wires do not lay flat.  What am I doing wrong?  I am using 21-gauge half round half hard sterling silver wire and gold plated wire.

Answer:

The first thing I saw in your question was that you are using half-round wire for the bindings. Please try this design using the wire shape called for: half-hard square. If your base wires are not as straight as they can possibly be, then while making the bracelet bundle, at least make them all go in the same direction. In this way when you draw them up through your hands while taping, they should lay together nicely, as you are forming a ‘plank’. When using the power of square half-hard wire to wrap, even if your bundle is slightly curved, the wraps should be strong enough to bind the plank-shaped bundle. (If you insist on using a small half-round, half-hard, be prepared to add a LOT more wraps than the design calls for, as this gauge is not strong enough to do the job you expect it to.)

On any pattern, if you are beginning, please follow the author’s specifications regarding wire gauges/tempers/shapes, as we do this for a reason – they work! When you have become proficient with a technique, then you can try to alter the design/wire tempers, shapes & gauges to make variations of that design.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Have a question? Submit your question here