Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
October 7, 2009

Question:

What gauge and temper wire could be used to wrap a very small cabochon, to maybe set in a ring?

Answer:

Most wire ring designs incorporate the stone or cabochon within the main construction. Depending on the style of the ring being made, 22g half hard wire is commonly used, however the gauge can be adjusted according to the size of the ring. I have made very small ring sizes in 24g and for that gauge I generally use half hard wire for its’ strength. The best advice is to follow the patterns’ suggestion first, and then experiment with a smaller gauge wire for a smaller stone.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
October 6, 2009

Question:

How do I make chain wire and what gauge of wire should I use?

Answer:

Chain links can be made using both round and square wire, however round is preferred. The size or gauge of wire used really depends on both the maker and the desired design. 16 or 18 gauge works well for a heavy chain; while 24g makes a finer chain that is still strong when small links are created, and most chain maille pieces are made using half-hard jump rings in gauges from 18 to 21.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
October 3, 2009

Question:

What is rolled gold wire? Does it hold up better than any of the products Ive used before or does it fade like gold plate? Eventually, I’d like to start working with real gold, but that’s not going to be for a long time. Should I just go for the gold filled wire instead?

Answer:

Gold-filled wire is a tube of gold, (usually 14k, sometimes 12k or 10k), that has been filled with a base metal, (generally pure jeweler’s brass), and the two are securely bonded together with heat and pressure.  In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission sets the definition as to the quality of gold-filled. For example, if an item is stamped 10KGF the gold must be no less than 1/10 of the item’s weight,  and 12KGF = 1/20. In Europe, ‘gold-filled’ is called ‘rolled gold’. In all gold-filled wire scenarios, everything that is seen or that will touch the skin is karat gold. The gold layer on gold-filled wire will not chip off or wash off. If a person were to wear a 14/20 gold-filled piece of jewelry every day continuously, the gold would last from 5 to 30 years!

Rolled gold ‘plate’ however, is just as it is called: plated. When a base metal is coated with a thin layer of gold via electrolysis it has been ‘plated’. If the base metal used is sterling silver and 18K gold is bonded to it, it is called Vermeil. Gold plate will wear off quite quickly, and the base metal below will tarnish.</p><p>14k gold-filled items have 50 to 100,000 times more gold than regular gold plating, depending on the manufacturer, and 17 to 25,000 times thicker than heavy gold electroplated items. I have been using 14/20 gold-filled wire to make jewelry for many years and have never had any returned due to issues with the gold wearing or coming off in any way. (Yes, I also work occasionally in 14k and 18k, but that can be extremely expensive).

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
October 1, 2009

Question:

Any tips for preventing kinks when shaping wire?

Answer:

The best advice I can give to avoid ‘making kinks’ when shaping wire, is not to force the wire! Take your time and ‘tease’ the wire. First, use the right tool for the right job and give the wire the direction and shape you would like it to follow. Then ‘put it there’! Often what you think is an angle is really a slight curve. Take your time and practice using something like copper until you are comfortable with whatever the technique that is giving you a challenge.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
September 30, 2009

Question:

Should I use sterling silver wire in my bracelets?

Answer:

Yes, sterling silver makes lovely bracelets, as does argentium silver, 14/20 gold-filled and combinations of sterling and gold-filled!On one hand, often the economy dictates what is most popular and the trend today is to use more silver as it is less expensive. On the other hand, an artist will use what they feel ‘works’ within whatever design they are making at the time, as well as what’s ‘in Vogue’. Personally I like to combine metal colors, giving a customer the option of wearing a piece with anything, and versatility makes a piece more affordable.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong