Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 2, 2010

Question:

What gauge and temper wire should I use to make a multiple-wire bangle bracelet? I usually use pattern wire with four twisted wires. Using 20 or 21-gauge half hard half round wire doesn’t seem strong enough to me, especially for the end wraps.

-Nancy in Sun Lakes, Arizona

Answer:

For many years, I have been using either 18-gauge or 16-gauge half hard half round wire as the binding or wrap wire for a pattern wire bangle.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 31, 2010

Question:

I recently bought the book Wirework. I was very pleased when I saw the beautiful jewelry that was pictured in the book. I am attempting to make the Ornate Cabochon Bracelet. I was confused when I read over the instructions; they didn’t seem to make sense, but I told myself, “one step at a time.”

Well, I’m on step 13, and the mystery is finally becoming clear: “You actually are making two pieces of jewelry and combining them to make one bracelet”! Why doesn’t the book say so? Anyway, this page is very misleading; I feel you should highlight the fact that the Chevron is merely a frame!

-Ruth in Wickenburg, Arizona

Answer:

Yes, the Chevron Bracelet Base (p. 45) is just as it is named, a “base,” to which any number of items can be incorporated. As I say in the book, the bracelet has an opening on which to attach a variety of “toppings.” The next project, the Ornate Cabochon Bracelet Topping, is an example of what can fit in the Base, which is why it is directly after the Base in Wirework.

Wirework: An Illustrated Guide to the Art of Wire Wrapping

As a progressive instructor, I wrote my book in the same manner that I teach classes and instruct on DVDs. I plan each series and class with each project building on prior projects and concepts. Each project is explained in full detail, and each section of the book has an introductory section. To be able to understand the directions, one should read through both the “Intro” section and then the design directions before setting out to make a project.

With any project, I suggest you work through the written pattern first, and then experiment and have fun making all sorts of designer bracelets!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 29, 2010

Question:

I saw a website which had 20-gauge practice wire for sale. Would practice wire be suitable to create a piece of gemstone jewelry and sell it? What metal is practice wire made of? Does it tarnish, peel, or turn green? What does it do with aging?

-Mary in Lawrence, Kansas

Answer:

When choosing a wire to practice with, you need to look at both the temper (hardness) as well as the shape (round, square, half round, etc) before purchasing it. Without knowing what the metal is, there is no way that I can tell you whether or not the wire will tarnish or if it will react chemically with the stones or beads you plan to use this wire with.

My suggestion is to find a pattern or two that you would like to practice and choose the specific wire gauge (size) shapes and hardness that the author of the design(s) recommends. If you are looking for a general practice wire, I personally recommend copper wire, in the gauge, temper and shape you need for whatever designs you plan to practice. Brass wire is also a popular practice choice.

If a website does not specify the details of a product, you might email them to ask for a detailed description, or find another supplier.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 28, 2010

Question:

What gauge of 14kt gold filled and Sterling Silver wire will I need to make ear wires for earrings and what hardness? Thanks.

-Gary in Moss Point, Mississippi

Answer:

The gauge of wire you decide to use for making ear wires really depends on the people you are making them for. I have had gifts of ear wires made with an 18-gauge round, that were way too large for the holes in my lobes!

All of the ear wires I make to sell, as well as the designs I teach, are from 21-gauge round wire, either half hard, full hard or spring hard.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 27, 2010

Question:

When making my earrings I had ordered Sterling Silver ear wires and lo and behold, they made everyone’s ears turn red and itch! Mine too! So in making my ear wires myself, which is better, surgical steel or stainless steel? And is there any way I can incorporate this wire into my pendant and jewelry designs?

-Ellen in Fayetteville, West Virginia

Answer:

Humm, if the “sterling silver” ear wires you purchased cause an allergic reaction in absolutely everyone’s skin, it sounds like they were mislabeled. Sterling silver is labeled .925 and contains 92.5% pure silver to which (usually) 7.5% copper is added as the alloy that makes it hard enough to work with. Unfortunately copper causes allergic reactions for some people.

Ear wires that are silver plated may also be the culprits, as plated wire consists of a thin layer or “wash” of silver over a base metal that may be nickel. Believe it or not, both stainless and surgical steel, used to make jewelry, also contain a small amount of nickel (8%). For these folks, it is best to use a product that is described as “nickel free” (which unfortunately still contains a tiny bit of nickel, but not more than .05%).

An alternative to all of this was thought to be Niobium, however as more people are using this metal for body piercings, allergic reactions are being found as well. To find stainless steel ear wires, or niobium ear wires, do an Internet search using those exact words.

As far as using steel for pendant and other jewelry designs, sure!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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